I was chatting to a man called 'OJ' in a bar in Minot, ND, when his wife came in and dragged him out. He was wearing a cap with a stylised union jack on it, a bit Like Jensen Button used to wear in his Honda days. I had just been speaking to his daughter on the phone (I can't think why). Her name was something like 'Olivia', and I had thoroughly confused her by (I thought) clever references to Hamlet. I don't think the Ophelia-confusing of the daughter was connected to the out-dragging by the wife, but I can't be sure, because she (the wife) wouldn't speak to me.
He said it was a Buffalo Bills cap. The Bills was the OJ's team. He was a Bills fan, he said, and that's why everyone called him 'OJ'. Maybe the wife ought to tread a bit more warily.
It is possible the wife knew what she was doing, because they had no sooner gone than several bus-loads of young ladies, out on several 'hen' nights, arrived, in, I have to say, a very frisky mood. One group, trying to raise money for a present, were selling lollipops under the banner 'a dollar for a suck'. I proffered two dollars, and the bride-to-be was astonishingly grateful. At which point I thought it wise to leave: I didn't want the young men to get too jealous.
I had been left at this bar by a taxi driver with a sense of humour beyond his years. I had asked him if he knew any bars with draught beer and old men drinking it. He clearly thought I would enjoy a rather different sociological experience. And I did.
I was going to spend the night in the van at a truck stop, having found a book which lists all the places where you can do that. So I had settled into a nearby bar for a quiet nightcap. It was called the 'Flaming Fireplace', but was anything but. The barmaid, amazingly, didn't want to talk to me. She was gossiping with an off-duty colleague at the other end of the bar. And the only other people in the place were teenage boys crowded round a card table playing cards.
When I asked if there was anywhere in walking distance which had draught beer, she said "No, but I'll call you a cab". I took the hint.
Oh, and every bar I've been in in North Dakota has a row of ashtrays on the bar. Just to celebrate being back in civilisation I cadged a cigarette from the barmaid of the Flaming Fireplace. Maybe that's why she took agin' me.
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