Thursday 9 July 2009

Wednesday 8th July 2009 – In the Devil’s Playground

It was only 87 when I got up, but CNN was gleefully promising 107, the highest number on their map. By the time I had finished breakfast and stuff, it had got to 98. The local Deputy, and the town manager were quite clear: it will certainly need a four-wheel drive, but the parks and railroad people at Kelso will be sure to help.

There's nothing for it but to head off into the desert.

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Of course, I forgot the map co-ordinates, and the water supplies, but that's just par for the course now. There is no-one on the road.

Soon it is high enough for the Joshua trees. I stop for a picture.

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As I open the door, right under my foot is a dog turd. Well, I assume it's a dog: just like being in Paris. A jack rabbit eyes me nervously, then scuttles away.

As I drive on, something runs across the road in front of me. Because I used to be a keen fan of Hanna- Barbera cartoons, I can tell straightaway it's a road runner.

At the Kelso Depot, everyone is keen to help. I am sent round to the ranger's house. He is of Scottish origin. He has actually been to Glasgow, Scotland, but is not sure if he's been to Glasgow California. He thinks he knows someone who can help.

I go and wait in the depot, which has a small reference library, and a display of desert and railway history.

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Then Greg, from the Parks Service turns up with the four-wheel drive. Julia, from the National Parks Association has promised to take me if he can't. We all pile in and it's off west along the railroad service road for 13.3 miles. I have taken Dulcie with me, and she's programmed with the co-ordinates.

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As we trundle alone beside the track, we spot a pick-up racing towards us in the other direction. There is no room to pass. But this is a railroad pick-up, and it's actually running on the rails.

Glasgow used to be a siding (basically, where the trains can pass each other). It isn't even that anymore. But the old ties are still lying about. They're the only sign that there was ever anything there.

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I make a final check with Dulcie. "You've still got ten feet to go", she says. There's no pleasing some people.

Greg tells me the neighbourhood is known as The Devil's Playground. It's so hot, I think I'm going to get sunburned through my clothes. The humidity is so low, I don't feel like I'm sweating, but, unusually for me, I'm very thirsty.

This will be a treasured memory. Everyone was just so helpful. But I'm glad it's over with.

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